There are a ton of people using EOL (end of life) Windows versions, which is
kinda scary. Not few of them do so because Microsoft has made updating something
negatively associated, which is also incredible. Updating software is essential,
please do so. If you don’t want to and don’t need Windows-only software, there
are a bunch of penguin people that happily guide your way through Linux. I
recently installed Win11 for a friend who needs Adobe software, and I think I
have achieved a near perfect result, with minimal hassle. This guide will show
you how to do a clean install of nearly unchanged Windows 11, and adapt it with
a few free and open source tools, to be less invasive and resource intense. If
you don’t want to reinstall, the german tech news channel Heise has made a
Registry hack that allows upgrading normally to Windows 11, if your hardware is
unsupported. - [DE] Guide on their website
[https://www.heise.de/news/Microsoft-zeigt-Trick-zur-Umgehung-der-Windows-11-Anforderungen-6212391.html]
- [EN] TheVerge article on bypassing Win11 hardware checks
[https://www.theverge.com/22715331/how-to-install-windows-11-unsupported-cpu-intel-amd-registry-regedit]
- Another website (paywalled)
[https://www.heise.de/ratgeber/Nach-Upgrade-auf-Windows-11-teilweise-keine-Sicherheitsupdates-erhaeltlich-10260745.html]
- YouTube video explaining the process
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-bm8JTvBBU] The following guide uses Rufus to
disable these checks. ## Prerequisites - Windows 10 machine - 2-3 pendrives /
USB-sticks with 4 and 9GB storage - external backup drive (e.g. a SATA SSD in a
USB case like this one
[https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fi.computer-bild.de%2Fimgs%2F5%2F4%2F5%2F5%2F6%2F8%2F7%2FFantec-2-5-SATA-USB-3-0-Festplattengehaeuse-658x370-a78f234f6e7027f4.jpg&f=1&nofb=1&ipt=a6ebca768dcd9b85c8159bebe5f3f4410d80700d81bc93844738b8abf0d7b47b&ipo=images])
- internet connection If you have a lot of drives, remove all of them apart from
the one where Windows is installed. # 1. Backup No backup no mercy, now is the
time to do it. To do this, you best use an external drive that you can remove
from the computer. So I recommend a big enough SATA SSD in a case, they are
extremely reliable and cheap. I use a Crucial SSD, but also others which never
failed on me. Do not use any encryption tools made by Microsoft (i.e.
Bitlocker), as you likely cannot get data back without Windows, and maybe even
on another machine. Instead, we will use a different tool. ## 1.1 Filesystem
Windows is a very limited OS, and it only supports a handful of useful
filesystems. Normally Windows would format external drives with NTFS, which can
be read on Linux, but not on macOS. For a full backup, exFat
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ExFAT] would be okay, as it supports files bigger
than 4GB (unlike Fat32, the default USB stick format). But I don’t know how to
format a drive with that filesystem and don’t bother. UDF
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Disk_Format] is better suited for this
job though. Like exFat it works on Linux, MacOS and Windows and it is mainly
used in DVDs. UDF is more resistant to data corruption and fragmentation
(relevant on spinning hard drives). Windows supports it, but does not easily
allow creating it
[https://www.getusb.info/how-to-format-a-flash-drive-as-udf-windows-7-10-solution],
so you need a Linux live USB too create a medium. Formatting the external drive
will remove all data, so make sure to copy it over to the current system first.
::: spoiler Optional Steps ### 1.1.1 Live Linux environment If you choose to use
the more advanced UDF filesystem, it is easiest to create it using a Linux “Live
USB stick”. As we need this tool later anyways, we install Rufus
[https://rufus.ie/], to write .iso files to USB sticks. Now we need a good Linux
variant (distribution, desktop) to do this, I find Fedora with the KDE Plasma
desktop [https://fedoraproject.org/kde/] to be the easiest and most powerful.
Fedora recommends to use their “Fedora Media Writer” and it works well, but
Rufus is also fine and needed for Windows. ### 1.1.2 Download Download Fedora
with the KDE Plasma desktop here
[https://dl.fedoraproject.org/pub/fedora/linux/releases/41/Spins/x86_64/iso/].
On a standard PC, you need the x86_64 or amd64 variant, so here we choose
Fedora-KDE-Live.... Note that 41 is the current version (March 2025) and Fedora
releases a new version every 6 months. So you should use the updated URL
following this scheme
https://dl.fedoraproject.org/pub/fedora/linux/releases/NUMBER/Spins/x86_64/iso/
# for example
https://dl.fedoraproject.org/pub/fedora/linux/releases/42/Spins/x86_64/iso/
Steps - Download the .iso file - Plug in a min 4GB USB pendrive / stick -
Install and open Rufus - Select the Fedora .iso file to write - Write the ISO
### 1.1.3 Turn off the PC Once finished, turn off the PC. Windows does not
really turn off all the time, which is the cause of battery drain on laptops and
will prevent the following steps. If you cannot physically remove the battery or
remove all power, open Powershell as administrator and run this command
%SYSTEMROOT%\system32\shutdown.exe -s -f -t 0 You can also open the text editor,
enter this command, and save it as shutdown.bat on your desktop. Then you can to
a real shutdown by clicking on the file. ### 1.1.4 Boot into Linux Turn on the
PC, now you need to know the key to press to show the boot menu. Try F1 to F10,
if Windows boots, shut it down using the power button. Repeat until you see
“Fedora Linux” as boot option, select it using the arrow keys and Enter. Some
laptops (like the Acer Swift 3 I used) seem to not have a boot menu, so you need
to enter the BIOS settings, go to boot options and set the flashdrive as first
option. Now Linux is starting. As this is an installer system, you don’t need a
password and will be presented with a KDE Plasma desktop! Fedora KDE Plasma
demonstration
[https://slrpnk.net/api/v3/image_proxy?url=https%3A%2F%2Ffedoraproject.org%2F_nuxt%2Fbackground_plasma.XBHSz62f.png]
### 1.1.5 Format the backup SSD Plug in your external backup SSD and open the
app “KDE Partitionmanager”. KDE Partition Manager UI
[https://slrpnk.net/pictrs/image/0ce4ba0b-f138-48b1-9cc8-060bcb6d0f31.png]
Select the correct drive (should be detectable through the size). Use the button
“New Partition Table” and select GPT. Now create 1 or 2 partitions. If you want
to use Linux later, you can create a backup partition for Linux here. For the
Windows backup partition: 1. Right click, New partition 2. Filesystem UDF 3.
Name: Backup-Windows 4. Size: how much you want, default is max, you can use
half if you want to also store Linux backups here For the Linux backup partition
(if you want) 1. Make sure to have space left (step before) 2. Create a new
partition 3. Filesystem EXT4, BTRFS or XFS. BTRFS is good if you use a spinning
hard drive, otherwise use EXT4 4. Encrypt the drive, use LUKS2, set a password.
Make sure to use a password that you can type in QWERTY layout, as it might be
used in some steps in the boot process by default. 5. Size max Then use the
“Apply” button in the top left to change the disk. If you don’t do this, no
changes will be done. Example: screenshot of how the disk would look like
[https://slrpnk.net/pictrs/image/5d6d3ee7-5e39-4259-a30f-9e1e46cc07b0.png] Now
you can turn off the Linux system again, remove the pendrive and boot into
Windows again. ___ ::: ## 1.2 Encrypted Backup location As we want to avoid
storing our data without encryption, but also want to prevent Microsoft from
locking us out from our own data
[https://www.laptopmag.com/laptops/windows-laptops/the-latest-windows-update-has-some-users-trapped-in-bitlocker-recovery-heres-how-to-fix-it],
we do not use Filesystem encryption and instead use free tools that work on
Linux, Windows and macOS. We can use Veracrypt [https://www.veracrypt.fr/] or
Cryptomator [https://cryptomator.org/]. Veracrypt is old and reliable,
Cryptomator also works well and is optimized for cloud storages, as it encrypts
files as small snippets. Both tools have passed security checks (audits) and can
be used, but Cryptomator is a bit easier to use and might perform faster for
updates, due to how it encrypts files. - Download and install Cryptomator from
the website - Plug in the backup drive - Open Cryptomator - Create a new vault -
Select a place in your backup drive - Set a password - Unlock the vault and open
it. Now backup all your things in here: ## 1.3 Backup Make sure to copy
Downloads, Images, Documents etc. If you dont want to lose appdata, you can use
this known trick to view it. Press Windows-Key+R and type %appdata%. The
filemanager will show the folder where many apps save their configurations,
Firefox profiles and more. Copy what you want to the backup drive. Do not
compress it if you want to regularly back it up. # 2. Download Windows ISO and
Software Download the Windows 11 ISO from this website
[https://www.microsoft.com/software-download/windows11]. Do not install the
“Media creation tool”, as Rufus has additional features. Meanwhile, download a
bunch of software for later use - DoNotSpy11
[https://pxc-coding.com/donotspy11/] to set a bunch of settings that change the
spying behavior of Windows. - Bulk Crap Uninstaller
[https://github.com/Klocman/Bulk-Crap-Uninstaller/releases/latest] which allows
you to remove a lot of preinstalled software - Firefox
[https://www.mozilla.org/firefox/download/thanks] instead of MS Edge -
Thunderbird [https://www.thunderbird.net/] instead of the crippled “New Outlook”
- VLC Media Player [https://www.videolan.org/] instead of the Windows Movie
Player - IrfanView [https://www.irfanview.com/64bit.htm] instead of the Windows
Photos app Check on “Alternative To [http://alternativeto.net/]” for alternative
software you might need. Optionally you can also use tools like Portmaster
[https://safing.io/] but this will create a more complex system to manage, if
you want profound privacy improvements. Do not pretend that Windows is a secure
system where you can safely store personal files and do private browsing. Use
this system as an appliance and no more. Save the software to a pendrive. You
can use the one with linux on it, but you need to reformat it with Windows (it
will tell you nonsense like “there is a problem with that flashdrive” anyways,
so this is pretty easy) # 3. Create a Windows install media - Plug in the 8GB
Pendrive - Open Rufus - Open the downloaded Windows 11 ISO - Select the correct
pendrive as target - Rufus chooses default settings, they are fine - It shows a
dialog window where you can enable changes. Select the ones you want. If you
have supported hardware, do not disable that, for example. - local account - no
onedrive - no forced bitlocker encryption - bypass hardware requirements
(minimum RAM and TPM 2.0) - continue, wait until finished # 4. Install Windows
Remove the backup drive, reboot the computer. See under hidden chapter 1.1.3 and
1.1.4 how to deal with issues booting into the Windows USB stick. Follow the
(damn ugly) installer. Remove all partitions on your PC that were previously
used by Windows. Continue When the install is almost done, the new fancy steps
will be shown, where you should connect to Wifi. The option “I don’t have
internet” should be shown, use that to avoid tracking and forced online
accounts. # 5. Setup Windows Once installed, you will have a Windows 11 desktop.
It is likely Windows 11 Home, which has a bunch of bloatware preinstalled, but
way less than at the beginning of Windows 11 or even Windows 10. ## 5.1
Debloating, Optimizations Do not connect to the Internet yet, install
BCUninstaller and DoNotSpy11. In BCU, enable “uninstall using checkboxes” and
the configs to remove protected packages. It does not work often anyways. In
DoNotSpy11 you can disable Windows Recall and more “AI” crap, but be aware that
is also allows you to turn off random security features. Only disable what you
understand. Install the other software you want now. ## 5.2 WinUtil Then connect
to the internet, and use ChrisTitus’ Windows Utility
[https://github.com/ChrisTitusTech/winutil] to set a bunch more things. Open
Powershell as Administrator, and enter irm "https://christitus.com/win" | iex in
here you can do a lot of things, mainly - remove Edge - set updates to “security
updates only” (you may or may not want that). DO NOT DISABLE UPDATES, this is
stupid. - disable telemitry, Cortana, web search, ads and more ## 5.3 GUI
changes The huge search bar always annoys me as it has no purpose that the
windows button does not serve. You can disable it in the panel settings (right
click on the panel). Uninstalling Software automatically fixes a bunch of
things. Cortana, Ads, “Recommended Apps”, News and the Edge Browser will be
gone. You may still want to change some minor things, like disabling
transparency and animations to reduce hardware load. # 6. Restore Backup You
should have Cryptomator installed, so now you can connect the backup drive,
unlock it with your password and copy over all your files! Windows is pretty
slow at handling many small files, the filemanager might hang when moving too
many, simply wait until it is done. # 7. Reboot The account does not have a
password yet! So you need to reboot, then you can set a user password. # 8.
Dual-Boot with Linux Dual-booting on the same drive is kinda hacky and can
result in breakages of the Windows or Linux system when done wrong. It is
recommended to use separate drives when possible, but using the same drive IS
possible. ::: spoiler Dual-Boot Instructions ## 8.1 shrink Windows partition In
Windows, search for “Partition” and open the partition manager. Here you see a
big NTFS partition, which you can resize. Select the smaller new size you want,
which will free space after the partition, where you can then install Linux. ##
8.2 Install Linux You can choose what Linux variant you want. Depending on how
often you want to use the system, you want one with more or less frequent
updates. If you only boot the system once a month or so, something like Debian
or AlmaLinux would be good. If you use it regularly, something like Fedora,
OpenSUSE Tumbleweed or Slowroll can be nice. Keep in mind that not all systems
work well with dualbooting. I generally recommend Fedora Atomic Desktops
[https://fedoraproject.org/atomic-desktops] and derivatives like “universal
blue’s” Bluefin [https://projectbluefin.io/], Aurora [https://getaurora.dev/]
and Bazzite [https://bazzite.gg/]. These systems are waay more reliable and easy
to update, especially when using them only once a year or so. “Recommended
Distros” like Linux Mint, Ubuntu or Fedora can get really messy as the
traditional package managers have extremely many breaking points, resulting in
failing updates or upgrades and you needing to learn a lot of technical things.
There are ongoing issues on dualbooting for these systems
[https://discussion.fedoraproject.org/t/147408] and setting them up is generally
worth a try. In short, it should work if you create a second /boot/efi
partition, and select the system to boot in your BIOS, instead of using the
Linux GRUB bootloader to also boot Windows, like it is done in many dual-boot
setups. ___ ::: # Result In the end you should have a minimal Windows system
with removed and replaced software. It will consume less RAM and do less without
you asking it to. It will likely not train AI models with your data, upload your
data into the cloud, or force you into subscription software. The system will be
a bit more privacy friendly, but it still relies on Microsoft not reverting
everything. Windows is a proprietary operating system, meaning even technical
people cannot easily know what happens in there. You should never trust it with
personal data and instead use a separate Linux system for that.
Meh. Pretty useless IMHO. There are plenty of tricks to apply after this basic stuff and even then, they will try to insert new telemetry on every small update.
It’s now worth the fight. Try to switch to Linux mint and have a dual boot for relevant software like Adobe.
I’m one of those morons that really hates himself so is running systems that are highly optimized (hardened, custom kernels, no systemd) and all I can say, yes, mint cheff’s kiss
Exactly. I used to play with installing different Linux distros all the time, just to see what was available. And when you use Linux Mint, your computer just fucking works. You install the damn thing, and then you just use it, and use it, and use it until the fucking wheels fall off.
I don’t know much about atomic releases. Is that in any way similar to immutable distros such as NixOS? If so, and you ran mid in that way, it ought to be damn near impossible to break.
Ventoy is so goated, I used Rufus then Balena for ages, then YUMI, and finally Ventoy. I’ve got a 128gb tiny USB attached to my phone case with every OS and utility I could need with over 80gb still free for file storage. Being able to download an iso and copy it with no software is huge, like in an emergency I could download an ISO on my phone if needed
Guys can you please read the post before writing random nonsense.
This is for people NEEDING windows only software
Ventoy is useless for the things I want to achieve. Rufus allows to change a bunch of things with a single click, like offline account, cloud, telemitry, bitlocker
If you don’t think the modern Linux distro are shiny and easy to use, how long has it been since you tried? There are plenty of feature complete distros that are shiny and modern and comfortable to start using as a lifelong windows user
Er, your instructions don’t kill all the telemetry that makes Win11 so privacy invasive.
Unfortunately, your comments about security are spot-on — there have been a number of improvements in the latest Win11 releases that were never added to Win10.
So while Win10 can be tweaked to be a relatively private OS, you need to update to the latest Win11 for security, or switch to a non-Microsoft OS.
Mind to tell me what is missing then? NextDNS or Portmaster could be used, but they add more complexity. And as said, Windows should not be considered a safe OS so hardening it is kinda useless
To be fair, while Microsoft is absolutely vile for such restrictions, I think people overestimate how many people would switch computers just to get Windows 11. It’s probably a concern for big corporations indeed, but regular users? I don’t think so. Most people don’t see anything wrong with staying on an OS that doesn’t receive updates. A lot of them already do so - on their phones, because the support is so short! I am now in the process of switching my father to Linux, and it’s genuinely hard to explain him why he has to get used to a different OS: his reaction to “But Windows 10 would no longer receive security updates!” is “So what?”. Windows 7 probably would’ve still had a high market share if 10 had a similar system requirements change.
Every work from home person and every corporate end point will be upgrading; simply due to legal liability for the corporations. That alone is hundreds of millions of pcs and laptops getting thrown out (because anyone in IT knows no corpo is going to pay the extra hours to recycle properly).
Average users with no liability? Plenty will stay on win 10 until their use case no longer works, i.e. when steam dropped win vista compatibility, but plenty will be scared enough to upgrade.
The weird part will be seeing who sidegrades to a tablet in the corporate environment. Many android tablets can do everything needed for office work, and don’t have the same security cross section. Most app front ends are electron anyway these days so its not like x86 is needed.